HOW LEATHER IS MADE

The Basic Process of Making Leather – Alternative Version

The process of making leather generally follows a series of essential steps: removing the animal hide, cleaning away flesh, soaking to loosen the hair, scraping the hair off, thinning certain layers of the skin, tanning the collagen fibers with a suitable tanning agent, and finally softening the material. Over time, many different techniques have been developed worldwide, giving rise to a variety of leather types and finishes. While modern industries mostly use chemical tanning methods, traditional tanning relied entirely on natural materials. Broadly, traditional tanning can be divided into two main approaches, each producing distinct results.

Tanning with Tannins (Bark Tanning)

Bark tanning involves soaking the hide in a tannin-rich liquid for several weeks or even months, depending on the size of the hide. This method requires large amounts of plant material to create the tannin solution. Leather produced this way typically has a smooth, polished top side and a softer underside. It is stiff, water-resistant, and naturally darker in color due to the tannins acting as a dye. This type of leather is ideal for items like shoes, belts, and bags. Although similar in concept to modern tanning, today’s commercial tanneries rarely use plant-based tannins—chemical agents such as chromium and aldehyde are more commonly used.

Tanning with Fat, Lecithin, and Smoke (Brain Tanning)

Brain tanning uses natural fats and lecithin to penetrate and preserve the hide instead of acidic plant tannins. Animal brains are traditionally used because they naturally contain the right balance of both components, but oils, lard, tallow, and eggs can also be used. Unlike bark tanning, which relies on long soaking times, brain tanning requires continuous stretching and working of the hide to distribute the mixture. The hide is then exposed to wood smoke, which helps lock the treatment in place and prevents it from washing out.

This process also involves removing the grain layer—the top layer of skin where the hair grows—resulting in leather that is soft on both sides, similar to suede or true buckskin. Brain-tanned leather is genuinely soft, breathable, strong, and flexible, making it ideal for clothing that needs to move with the body. It can be cut into strong laces and used to construct garments or bags without additional materials. It also holds beadwork securely without requiring the needle to pass completely through the leather, preserving the hide’s strength.

At Leather Art Creation, understanding these traditional and modern tanning methods helps us appreciate the craftsmanship behind high-quality leather goods and guides us in producing durable, beautifully crafted products for our clients.